Decoys can't work if the birds can't see them. It doesn't do much good if you tuck a whole bunch of decoys into the cattails, back in the flooded corn or in the corner of a field where trading birds can't see them. It doesn't hurt to place a few blocks near some cover, but the main body of your decoy spread should always be out in the open where passing ducks and geese can see and be drawn to them.

Also, make sure your decoys are vivid and freshly painted to maximize their appeal. Pay particular attention to the light and dark or white and black areas on decoys. Those colors seem to show up best in the field, especially under dim light situations, and enhance the decoy's attraction.

I often make new decoys more visible by adding more white to the sides of bluebills or near ends of Canada's or the chests of drake pintails. Dark decoys show up well, too. Artistically painted decoys probably attract more waterfowl, though, and their rich colors enhance their ability to draw birds from afar. Be sure to use flat, non-glare paint.

Keep in mind that during the early part of the season many ducks are still in their eclipse plumage and drakes will not have brilliant colors they'll sport later in the year. Because of this, I include more hens in my decoy spread during the early season and add more colorful drakes as the year goes on.

The preseason is a good time to get your decoys organized, too. Checking and replacing missing anchors or chafed lines prior to opening day can save a lot of frustration and precious hunting time. I also put my decoys in nylon mesh bags according to species. Mallards go in one bag, goose floaters in another, bluebills in the third and a collection of widgeon, pintails and coots in another.

Even the most visible and attractive spread of decoys will not draw waterfowl to an undesirable spot. They aren't going to land off a wind-swept point buffeted by high waves. Waterfowl don't like being jostled around anymore than you do. They may trade past a point like this throughout the day, but are more likely to be attracted to the calm water on the leeward side of the point, and you stand a much better chance of getting them to work your decoys there.

Ducks and geese threatened by nasty weather will also seek secluded potholes or marshes to get out of the wind to feed and roost until better conditions prevail. You'd be smart to put up your decoys in a similar location.

Waterfowl often make morning and evening flights to distant feeding grounds before returning to resting areas at midday and after dark. To find them, watch bird movements and make note of their comings and goings.

How many decoys you use depends on the species you're hunting, the hunting location and your ability to transport them. Some species, like black ducks, wood ducks and ring-necks, are accustomed to traveling in small flocks. Often, you don't need more than a half dozen decoys to attract these species. Ducks, like wood ducks and blacks, also frequent smaller bodies of water where there may not be room for many decoys. Secluded beaver ponds and small flooding's are likely hangouts for these species and it might not be practical, or necessary, to put out a big spread of decoys in these confined environs. A half dozen blocks, placed where passing birds can see them, is often all that's necessary when targeting these species.

On the other end of the spectrum, decoy spreads for hunting diving ducks can often number in three figures. Diving ducks, like bluegills, redheads and canvasbacks, frequent large bodies of water like great lakes bays, estuaries and large inland lakes, and often rest and feed in huge rafts. To draw the attention of trading diving ducks, hunters need to set large spreads of decoys to maximize their attractive qualities and visibility.

For most waterfowl situations in the great lakes region, productive decoy spreads usually require two to four dozen decoys. The makeup of the spread will depend on whether you're hunting puddle ducks, divers or a combination of both.

Before you set your first decoy, check the wind direction. You should always try to position your back against the wind when facing the decoys. Duck and geese land into the wind and incoming birds will offer easy targets and expose their vital area for clean kills when approaching head-on. If the wind suddenly changes, you should consider moving your decoys or blind location. At the very least, set your decoys so birds approaching at a crossing angle.

Setting effective decoy spreads is as simple as knowing your abc's. Many of the best layouts for decoys emulate the letters J,W,V and C. The closed end of the letter should be the closest to the blind and facing the wind. I usually place more decoys at the closed end of the letter and fewer towards the open end. Birds generally land where there are the fewest decoys.

The first decoy I set is directly in front of the blind or boat. That gives me a point of reference to begin setting my decoys. I then set one decoy at each open end of the letter, approximately 30 to 35 yards out and to each side of the blind. I fill in the spread between the outer decoys and the one positioned in front of the blind creating a V, W, C or J. By setting decoys in this fashion, I've created a pattern that looks natural to approaching ducks, directs birds to the center of the spread to provide easy shooting and encourages birds to land in the middle, off to one side or at the ends of the letter. By setting the outer decoys at a maximum of 35 yards, I know when incoming birds reach the furthermost decoy they're in range.

Ducks decoy readily during the early part of the season. Many flocks consist of naive, young-of-the-year birds that haven't become wise to the ways of hunters. But give these same birds a few weeks of "on the job training" and you'll find them increasingly difficult to fool. As the season progresses, savvy waterfowlers employ a few tricks to ensure good shooting.

Most waterfowlers prefer one style and size of decoy, but I like to mix both sizes and brands of decoys to add different silhouettes and realism to my set. I use both magnum and standard size decoys. Obviously, not all live birds are the same size and configuration, and your decoys shouldn't be either. Also, make it a point to tie on about a third of your decoys to the eyelet on the back of decoys. You don't want all your decoys facing, stoically, in one direction because they'll look exactly like what they are: decoys.

Confidence decoys are another ploy waterfowlers can use to make their decoy spread more natural-looking and convincing. Adding goose, coot or heron decoys to your setup makes your spread look more natural.

Waterfowl are used to feeding and resting with these birds and including a few in your layout will help fool decoy-wise birds. Feeder decoys, which simulate the rear end of a puddle duck that's tipping up for food, also gives the impression of a feeding flock of contented birds. Adding motion to your decoy spread is the coup de grace for making them look live. Waterfowl are continually flapping their wings, splashing, preening, etc., and this movement attracts other waterfowl. Movement is especially important on "bluebird" days when bright sun and little wind make decoys look fake instead of alive. Several manufacturers produce battery operated decoys that splash and send out ripples that make decoys look alive on calm days. A line can also be run from one or several anchored decoys to the blind. When birds are approaching, the hunter pulls on the line to cause the decoys to splash and resemble live, feeding birds.

Flagging is another technique used to give your decoy spread the illusion of motion. This technique can be as simple as attaching a black or dark colored cloth to a stick. When you see birds at a distance, waving the flag simulates the movement of other waterfowl and draws their attention. Variations of this include T-flags, which flap like the wings of a goose or duck when moved up and down. There are also "flying" decoys that mimic landing birds and are activated by the wind.

Decoy strategies for geese are similar to those used for ducks. Geese are more often hunted on dry land. Generally, fewer decoys are needed for hunting geese over water than on land. During the early nuisance goose season in September, geese are fairly gullible. Some preseason scouting and a few dozen shells or silhouettes is all that's necessary to bag a limit. If possible, place your spread on the highest point in the field away from the hedgerows and fence lines. Set your decoys in small family groups of six or eight birds. Be sure to keep them well within shotgun range.

Late-season geese will have wised up considerably and successful hunters will need to resort to relentless scouting and large spreads of full-bodied decoys, like Flambeau's new Persuader. The Persuader features a Convert- A-Goose head that changes the decoy from feeder to sentry in a snap. Make it a point to have eight to 10 feeders for every sentry in your spread. Feeding geese are contented geese.

All the hard work and knowledge that goes into setting a convincing spread of decoys will become evident when a flock of wary birds commits with wings cupped and feet dangling above your decoys. It's the moment all waterfowlers live for.